Islands of Porto
How people live in communal apartments of Porto
8 February 2020
Not far from the medieval center of Porto up on the right side of the river located Rebeiro district. The streets of the area look like many others in Porto: tall old houses, some decorated with ceramic tiles. The area differs from the rest of Porto because it still keeps the housing built during the times of industrial revolution.
Not far from the medieval center of Porto up on the right side of the river located Rebeiro district. The district's streets look like many others in Porto: tall old houses decorated with ceramic tiles. The area differs from the rest of Porto because it still keeps the housing built during the Industrial Revolution.
Porto communal apartments are actually small houses grouped in form of corridors.
Corridors are a place where the neighbors meet for conversations and common celebration.
In the mid-19th century, a considerable number of people moved to cities. The factory owners built cheap housing for their workers: dozen tiny houses built in the form of corridors. In Porto, they became known as Ilhas do Porto, or «islands.» One house for one family with shared facilities in the corridor: a toilet, a shower, and a laundry sink with a board made of concrete. Each house had its kitchen. The size of such homes was about 16 square meters plus a small attic, where the bedroom was usually arranged. Usually, 6-10 people lived in such a house.
"Islands" remain the place where some of the poorest inhabitants of the city live. People here support close relationships in joy and grief.
Ribeiro says farewell to one of neighbors.
Corridor is also a place where children from different houses play together.
Approximately a thousand «islands» were built throughout Porto. By the beginning of the 20th century, about 50 thousand people lived there. High population density and poor sanitary conditions led to the spread of diseases. Over time, people who could afford it moved to more comfortable housing. The «islands» began to disappear, and those that remained got renovated. Houses got water supply, sewage, and electricity. Some of the tenants bought their homes and rebuilt them. However, to this day, the «islands» remain the place of life of the predominantly poorest residents and a problem that the city cannot solve at present.
Senor Jose is 92 years old, half the day he spends in the chair on one side of the street while it is in the shade.
Part of the corridor where previously were common facilities are used as a storage place nowadays.
About six «islands» remain in the Rebeiro area. Previously, a lot more people lived here. There was even a football team. But young people are leaving, and now most of the residents are pensioners.
Jose was in the navy, now retired. Sometimes he bakes piglets for other people in the furnace of his garden, located at the end of one of the corridors.
Jose was born in the islands, and despite the fact that he moved from here 20 years ago, he does not lose touch with this place. He has a small garden at the end of the corridor, where his house is located, where he grows greens and chickens.
Jose was born and grew up in one of the "islands" of Rebeiro. He was in the navy and presently retired. Jose moved from the «islands» 20 years ago but did not lose touch with them. Almost every day, he comes to his old corridor, where he still has a home and a small garden at the end of the «island.» In the garden, he grows greens and birds. He is also on duty in a local cafe, which is openly several hours a day and where the locals come to drink a cup of espresso and discuss the news.
Alfonso works on a silver candelabra, which will be sold to Israel. Alfonso was also born in "islands" and moved, but his workshop is still here.
Gentlemen play a popular local card game outside on St. John's Day.
Ladies discuss news in local cafe.
Every year on 23 June, Porto celebrates St. John's day - the patron of the city. This day is the second Christmas or New Year for residents of Porto when families and friends are coming together. People prepare for this day especially - the streets of the whole city are decorated with garlands and luminous drawings, and particular food is cooked. One of the holiday traditions is to create installations from small ceramic figures, called Cascata, in the courtyards of houses. Among the figures are always present Jesus and St. John. There are also figures of usual people:
- A military orchestra
- A religious procession
- A milkwoman peeing in a can with milk
- Even a shitting man
Previously, the installations were made by children who asked for money from those who came to watch. The money was partly collected "for the saint". Children bought new figures for this money, and every year the size of Cascata would increase. Nowadays, this tradition gradually disappears, but still, some make it. In Jose "island" one Cascata was also created.
On St. John day installations from ceramic figures, called Cascata, are created in some courtyards.
Street and islands are decorated with garlands and latens for the St. John day.
St. John's day is the most important holiday for the «islands.» A day earlier, a parade occurs where all city districts where there are «islands» participate. Each «island» had its team previously, but now there are not many people, and the «islands» of the same district are united in one group.
Dance rehearsal in the courtyard of the local school.
The people of the Rebeiro district also created one team. Many participants joined, although they had long moved to other areas. The team hired a choreographer to stage the dance and an orchestra: two guitarists, accordionist, saxophonist, and trumpeter. In addition, they gathered a group of drummers. Drums were made from old metal barrels.
Musicians were hired for a parade: a pair of guitarists, drummers, accordionist, saxophonist and trumpeter.
Dancers rehearsed in the courtyard of a local school at one end of the street while the drummers rehearsed their skills in a parking lot at the other end. After the first rehearsal, the orchestra found that the contest rules did not allow wind instruments. But since the musicians had already been hired, the trumpeter and the saxophonist got a musical triangle and something similar to a washboard.
The drummer team, composed of the locals, rehearsed on the parking lot on the other end of the street.
A professional dance teacher was found for the dance setting.
In the evening, dancing for all residents of the district were arranged in the same school yard.
People from the neighboring house are dancing on the balcony.
Many people, who did not participate in rehearsals, joined the team on the day of the parade. People came in costumes to support their district team. The theme of the contest changes each year. This year it was dedicated to local producers. That is why many people came with different plants in their hands, and some even with live birds. Each team has a godfather and godmother - usually a local celebrity. This year the Rebeyro team godparents were a host of the local tv and his wife.
This year, parade theme was "local producers". That's why many participants brought various plants and animals.
Drummers team dressed up for the parade.
The team went from Rebeiro to the city center. Police helped by cleaning the street from traffic along the move.
Each team has a godfather and godmother. This year, the godfather for Rebeiro team was a local celebrity tv host and his wife.
The wagon with Saint John passes by the team from another area.
The parade reached the city's main square. Here, in front of the city hall, the performance took place. The jury evaluated dance, song, and costumes. The winning team gets honour and respect. Many «islands» have shiny plates placed at the entrances to show the victories at the parades in past years.
The team Rebeiro reached city square where the main performance in front of a jury took place.
Performance in front of the jury opposite the city hall.
After the performance on the main city square, the team moved back. Now far less organized, but no less numerous, people went to their street under the roar of the drums.
Food support during a pause.
The drum wand broke down from a too strong blow to the drum on the way home.
After leaving city main square part of the team remained in the parish building to organize the celebration. The rest went home to leave tools and trolleys.
The team returns home.
Drum team last hit on drums.
After returning to own street.
The next day the whole street was getting ready for St. John's Day. People finalized decorations, bought fresh sardines at the market, peeled potatoes, and prepared grills. In the centre of the street near a local cafe, people were eagerly awaiting the radio announcement of the results of yesterday's competition. There was no limit to joy when the radio voice announced that the Rebeiro district team took third place. People danced, hugged, cried, and then «armed» with drums and pan covers, singing a song once again walked the streets around their block.
Next morning preparations for the celebration.
Sardines, potato and green cabbage soup are traditional dishes on Saint John day.
Joy and dancing after the announcement on the radio that the Rabiro team ranked third.
After the announcement the team once again went around the block with songs and music.
Loud drums and screams attracted many surprised looks.
Closer to evening, sardines and paprika were grilled all over the street. In every corridor, people set up tables. St. John's Day for the people of Porto is the second Christmas or New Year when families and friends get together. Thousands of luminous balloons rise into the air with the onset of darkness, and at midnight fireworks are arranged on the Louis Bridge.
Grilled sardines is traditional dish.
Grills are placed all over the street and tables are covered in every island.
Hitting passers-by on the head by air hammer or flowering garlic is another tradition of St. John's Day.
The celebration in the islands continues until the morning, although most people go to walk around the city.
In every house for St. John's Day there is a balloon or a few.
A lot of paper fiery balloons rises to the air closer to the midnight.
The celebration lasts all night and entertainment can be found for every taste. Music is playing throughout the city, from tango to R&B. It is said the strongest people walk to the ocean coast to meet the dawn on the beach.
Exactly at midnight fireworks are shot from the Luís I Bridge.
